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Sunday, June 9, 2013

Indian Outfits

Indian Outfits Definition

Source(Google.com.pk) To read and enjoy this book it will suffice to possess a modest knowledge of creativity. We all are born creative; but today due to various educational burdens weare some times not able to nurture this in our life. To open this angle of our life isexactly what I have done in “Traditional Indian Costumes and Textiles”Costumes and Textiles have occupied a prominent place in the world, acrossgeographic regions and climatic conditions, since ancient times. People naturallyutilized whatever material was conveniently available. Over time, the designing of textiles and costumes developed in the hands of artisans as they enriched fabric andgarments. In fact, contemporary textiles and costumes reflect our spirit, ourconsciousness and the vibrancy of the society in which we live. This is how textile andcostume designing has evolved in India.Artisans and craftsmen have played a pivotal role in textile designing sinceprehistoric times. The vision vocabulary of the artisan and functional usage of particular artefacts have led to important contributions in the development of artisticdesigns. The division of techniques, however, was not clear-cut and quite often onetechnique could flow into the other, leading to variations in characteristic forms andstyles.The preservation, revival and study of the best of the textiles and costumes arenecessary to provide a guide to good craftsmanship. These designs embody thesynthesis, over time, of indigenous talents, the new cultural impacts, and the imageryof sign and symbol. Fashion designers and craftsmen today create crafts whosedesigns and ornamental motifs are truly characteristic of India, and these have becomethe inspiration for future generations.The dates when specific patterns in textiles and costumes appear and reappearare illuminating, for they reveal how designs and styles repeat themselves. Often apattern seems typical of a far later time than that of its actual making. All fashionarises at a particular moment in history. People demonstrate how they belong, wherethey are in place and time, by shaping the lines and colours of their clothes andfurnishings in their homes. A fresh modification of the old motif and style,ornamentation or design is generally how innovation is accepted in designing.
Textiles and costumes go back to mankind’s earliest times and belong to a veryold tradition of design and symbols. Although reinvented several times, the basic artforms retained their shape and artistic appeal through the centuries. Like other artforms, traditional textiles and costumes also link the past with the present. Throughthe centuries, the skill of the artisan has been employed for design creation ormodification, not for documentation. Accordingly, the burden of documentation hasfallen on museums, design centres and archives.The changing roles of the artisans, craftsmen and designers are emphasized inthe context of emerging technology that is capable of facilitating the preservation,dissemination and generation of new designs based on decorative forms, and alsooffers enhanced capabilities in terms of colour variety and colour differentiation. It ishoped that the influence of emerging technology will lead to a renaissance in the fieldof decorative designing. Indian textile and costume designs can be innovatively usedtoday by interchanging motifs and their ornamentations for serving the world of fashion and also increasing awareness about our rich cultural heritage
Introduction
Clothes are natural to man and their proper decoration on his unclothed body isnot ugly, on the contrary it is beautiful and pleasing, perhaps we should blame theserpent in the Garden of Eden, who was responsible for arousing Eve and making heraware of her body. Evolution of costumes and Textiles began the day Eve strategicallycovered herself with the first fig leaf! But her garments did not have a lasting qualityand she probably changed them as often as her moods. We can see from ancientpaintings and sculptures that the Indian woman was as fashion conscious as theirEuropean counter parts.History testifies that man has throughout been inventing and creating for theirfulfilment. It is, therefore that his essential love of nature has been manifest directly orindirectly in all such creations. His needs, his socio-geographical environment, his
economic status are all fully represented therein. Particularly, among these, his
costumes show the utmost influence of the social life, the seasons and his field of work. It is the "costume which establishes his individual identity in society and whichalso links him up with the social hierarchy.Textiles have been produced in India since antiquity. However, very few of theold textiles still exist. One reason is that cloth has long been regarded solely as anarticle of consumption, rather than as an art form, and designs are lost througheveryday wear and tear.The Indian village of now bears little resemblance to its predecessor of aboutfour thousand years ago. Yet the bulk of early styles of costumes, such asembroidered, painted, dyed and printed textiles, may be described as genuinetraditional art in the original sense of the term. As time went on, however, the culturalisolation of most of the villages decreased in proportion to their growing contacts withnearby towns, and consequently with the culture of the great temple complexes andthe royal courts which represented the then prevailing phase of Indian high art.Practically no aspect of village culture or tribal life remained untouched as culturalexchanges and reciprocal influences took place.Another factor, which played an equally important role in the development of traditional Indian textiles and costumes over several thousand years, is the country’sgeography. In the cultural and historical sense, India constitutes a vast subcontinent of strongly contrasting physical features and corresponding variations in climate. In the
north, the weather was cold, the textiles produced were generally embroidered or if they were woven, small handlooms were used, as the work had to be carried outindoors. The raw material used was wool, which was freely available. In the south, thehot and humid temperature was very good for black soil cultivation; thus the bestquality of cottons could be accessed from there. The
Deccan
plateau, with its wasteforests having mulberry cultivation produced silk in abundance. In the west, havingmixed climate, the best quality printing along with different styles of embroidered andwoven work was done. In the East, the cottons, silk and woollen materials wereembroidered and woven Dyed or unbleached materials with blue or red-yellow borders were called ‘flowing water’, ‘evening mist’, ‘woven air’ and they totally proved these names because of their texture and appearance: they were so much thin and transparent that embellishments were worn under the dresses. India is considered a birthplace of cotton and clothes made of cotton. Many fabrics remained in the history with the names got from the names of cities and villages where the fabrics were made: Madras, madapollam, calico and others. First the art of printed cloth was created in India where flower and plant design was prevailed. Indian became famous for its printed cloth in the world.
Marco Polo, the famous Venetian merchant and traveller, who was in India in 1290-s, wrote: “The most beautiful, thinnest and excellent baccaran is woven here, as it seems to be made of wool. All kings and queens wear it as it is so much gorgeous and spruce.”
In the Middle Ages, being under Arabic influence, they began to produce silk cloth such as taffeta, muslin woven with gold, silver and jewels. In XVII-XIX centuries Kashmiri wool shawls decorated with flowers and birds had a high value in Europe. These materials were produced from Tibetan kids’ fluff.
The main types of clothing
Numerous influences that experienced Indian culture from the Persians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs had an immediate effect on Indian costume. We can see this influence on the variety of applied fabrics and on the manner of clothes wearing. Some clothes are wrapped around the body, while the others are put on; it means that draped clothes are worn along with dresses.
Male costume
Old relics and monuments indicates that in ancient times men did not cover the upper part of the body and the lower part was usually wrapped with a shawl called dhoti which was fixed on the thighs with a string or a belt. There were several ways to drape the dhoti. The narrow part of a rectangular or a triangular dhoti was wrapped on the thighs behind and was tied with a knot in front. The hanging part of dhoti was pulled up between the legs.
The long end was dropped in front like an apron and wrapped over the hips. The remaining part of the male costumes was a turban and a cloak rupa. Both turban and rupa are made of rectangular pieces of material.
Turban is made of cloth folded several times and wrapped over the head.Rupa is thrown over one or both shoulders drawn under the arm and tied a knot at the chest throwing the ends back on both shoulders. Massive necklaces, spiral bracelets wearing on the arms and legs decorated man’s clothing. Originated from the Iranian culture a simple cut garment appeared in Hindu clothing such as caftan and trousers. Wealthy Hindus are depicted on Gandhara reliefs with long tight trousers and caftans fitted close to the body. Sandals, boots and shoes of bast, reed, and leather are main footwear in India. Five meters long, draped dhoti is the basis of modern conventional male costume. A white knee-length shirt and short jacket with sleeves or without are put over the dhoti. The bright turban (light blue, yellow, red), decorative belt-scarf tied at the waist, and draped cloak tossed over the shoulder complete the costume.
Female costume
Draped clothes are combined with tight and loose forms of clothing in both male and female costumes. In ancient times female costume also consisted of loincloth and draped piece of fabric. Sari, as a type of draped female clothing, also dates back to antiquity. Over the centuries, the strict rules of sari draping have been developed. The forms of draping are notable for its wonderful harmony, plasticity and rich colours. A sari is a strip of cloth ranging from six to seven meters in length that wraps the body from ankle to head. Commonly women wrap the sari like a dhoti then lay the strip across the breast, pass under one arm on the back and advance it over the other shoulder. The popular and simpler way to wear a sari is wrapping fabric around the hips one or two times and affixing it at the front with a knot or a belt. The upper part of the body is draped with the rest of the cloth. Sometimes they cover the head with part of the sari lying behind. Decorative solution of saris is very rich: plain or patterned silk and cotton fabric with a broad ornamental border. The most common colours are green, green-blue, golden yellow, and scarlet. Sari is usually worn paired with a short bodice called choli which has short, tight sleeves and lacing fastener at the back. Choli is usually made of bright coloured materials contrasting with the colour of sari.
Women's clothing in India varies widely and is closely related to climate peculiarities as well as influence of neighboring peoples. So, Kashmir and Bengali costumes consists of a broad long shirt and long trousers; women of western India wear wide pleated skirts and large patterned shawls.
The costumes are supplemented with a scarf-belt, jewelry, decorative cosmetics, sandals made of ebony and decorated with inlays of ivory and metal.
The old sari is the basis of modern traditional costume. Thus, the smooth blue saris are the uniforms of stewardesses; medical students wear snow-white, transparent saris, etc. Casual and elegant attires of Indian women must include sari in both country and city as it corresponds perfectly with the life conditions and national appearance.
Indian clothing throughout history varies widely by region, culture, religion and climate. Saris and the salwar kameez--a unisex outfit consisting of loose trousers and a tunic--are traditional attire for Indian women. Indian men traditionally wear the lungi, dhoti or kurta. While European styles frequently appear in large Indian cities like Mumbai, many Indians hold to traditional clothes.